#82, Painted, Cygnar, Lieutenant Allison Jakes (Tactics Kickstarter)

Warmachine, Cygnar, Lieutenant Allison Jakes 

 

Introduction

Here is my painting of the Warmachine Tactics, Bonus Model Lieutenant Allison Jakes. My mate gave me this model as an addition to my army, he picked her up as part of the kickstarter. I wasn't overly fond of this model when I first saw the model. Shes really small and quite fiddly.

What I did

 Assembly

There wasn't too many bits for this model, I clipped and cleaned it up. I left the arms off for painting which was a positive as the arms cover the body to large extent.

Painting

Base

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry brush: Grey (Vallejo Game Color,  Sombre Grey)
3. Dry brush: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight

Model

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Highlight: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
6. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
7. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
8. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
9. Hair: Red (P3, Murderous Magenta)
10. Hair Ink: Red (Army Painter Ink, Red)
11. Hair Highlight: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
12. Leather: Brown (P3, Blood Stone)
13. Leather Highlight: Brown (P3, Ruckstack Tan)
14. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
15. Skin Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
16. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

Conclusion

While I feel disappointed in my outcome I didn't give up and kept working on the model till I didnt hate it. I really dont enjoy those small models and I guess Im going to have to work on my skills in the future.

6/10

#81 Painted, Warmachine, Cygnar, Charger

Warmachine, Cygnar, Charger

Introduction

I didn't really enjoy the painting overly as the model chassis is largely just the same one as the lancer and firefly. I did however enjoy a 3rd chance at getting those lines a little bit cleaner than the last two times.


 Other than that I really really enjoy playing this guy on the battlefield.

What I did

Whats in the Box?

• 1x Charger Model
• 1x Medium Base
• 1x Stat Card (definitely not the latest one).

 At this point I'm going to have a whinge about the lack of a latest stat card in the box, Whinge whinge whinge, If you are going to upgrade a game, If you are going to go to all that trouble how about you ship out some singles for the people buying the boxes.

Basing

I went for the ever popular wall filler plus drybrushing method of basing.

In this case it was:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry Brush 1: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Sombre Grey)
3. Dry Brush 2: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry Brush 3: White (P3, Menoth White Highlight)

Assembly

Overall there wasnt really any suprises with the model, the chassis is the same as the lancer and the firefly and the hammer arm is the same as the Ironclad's Quake Hammer arm. the gun is in 2 bit and very simple to get together.

I used a hobby knife to clean off any gates and then try and clean down any mold lines that I found.

Painting

Here are the paints I used:

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
6. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
7. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
8. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
9. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

Conclusion

Overall I was happy with this guy, I think he could have done with a little more with the contrast but he did look the bit in his blue Armour.

8/10

#80 Painted, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Lancer

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Lancer

Introduction

All I really wanted to paint on this model was the emblem, I wanted to get it right, I wanted it to be awesome. I read over the material from the Cygnar guide from the battlegroup box and decided to try and follow the instructions, I haven't really done too much blending in the past deliberately at least, I have accidentally done it and then wondered how to achieve it again.

Painting

Step By Step

Base

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry brush: Grey (Vallejo Game Color,  Sombre Grey)
3. Dry brush: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight

Model

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Electric Nodes: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
6. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
7. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
8. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
9. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
10. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

Emblem

1. Layer 1: Brown (P3, Bloodstone)
2. Layer 2: Orange (P3, Heartfire)
3. Layer 3: Yellow (P3, Cygnus Yellow)
4. Layer 4: White (P3, Menoth White Highlight)

Conclusion

Well here I am a person who somehow managed to paint the emblem I think I will always claim this one as a win. Otherwise the model is a little dark and could use with a little more contrast.

8/10

#81 Painted, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Ironclad

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Ironclad

Introduction

The last of the models for the Cygnar Battlegroup. I really wanted to give this guy a good go and I tried to get the the model to have a little more contrast. The model itself is kinda simple its essentially a jack with a hammer and not too much else to it. To get this right I had to pick out every little detail with the silver or gold and make it stand out.

Painting

Step By Step

Base

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry brush: Grey (Vallejo Game Color,  Sombre Grey)
3. Dry brush: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight

Model

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Shoulder Pads: Dark Blue (Citadel, Stegadon Scale Green)
6. Electric Nodes: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
7. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
8. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
9. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
10. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
11. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

 Conclusion
While I am happy with the model I am not happy with the brightness of the model. I think I may work on the colour a little more, one thing I have always found difficult is when I take a photo the model can look really good while on the shelf unlit it will look overly dark. I don't know how to fix that at the moment but it is always something to work on.

7/10

#79 Painted, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Firefly

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Firefly

Introduction

My second model in the Cynar box was the this guy the firefly. I was a little scared of the gun to be honest. It looked complicated, I wasn't sure of the effect I was going to use I knew I wanted something like the box but I had no idea how to achieve it.

Painting

Step By Step 

Base

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry brush: Grey (Vallejo Game Color,  Sombre Grey)
3. Dry brush: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight

Model

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Electric Nodes: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
6. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
7. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
8. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
9. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
10. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

Conclusion

I feel like I've done alright with the gun arm on the Firefly, It was always going to be a little strange and I definitely didn't have a idea of how to do it. But and its a good but, I've managed to pull one out of the bag and create a model I don't hate. I don't think the inking worked too well on the Armour I think for further models I will fully ink then dry brush them back up again. 

7/10

#78 Painted, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Major Beth Maddox

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016, Major Beth Maddox

Introduction

The first of my paint's for the Cygnar box I really just dove in.and swum around. If anything I was worried, All these small models with fiddly features remind me of painting infinity and honestly I didn't have a good time with infinity.

I took the starting point of trying to just do the basics, blues, golds and silvers and the rest up to chance.

Painting

Step By Step

Base

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dry brush: Grey (Vallejo Game Color,  Sombre Grey)
3. Dry brush: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
4. Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight

Model

1. Prime: Vallejo Primer White
2. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Base Blue)
3. Armour Air brush: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)
4. Armour Dry brush/highlight: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
5. Electric Nodes: Light Blue (P3, Arcane Blue)
6. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
7. Amour Highlights/Metal Sections: Gold (Army Painter, Greedy Gold)
8. Metal Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
9. Armour Ink: Blue (Army Painter, Ink Blue)
10. Hair: Yellow (Reaper, Saffron Yellow)
11. Leather: Brown (P3, Blood Stone)
12. Leather Highlight: Brown (P3, Ruckstack Tan)
13. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
14. Skin Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone)
15. Front Facing Arc: Blue (P3, Cygnar Blue Highlight)

Conclusion

As you can see from the video I didnt have a heap of trouble with this model and it turned out not terrible to boot. I think the colour scheme is really strong, I like the two tone approach to the leather I think it really worked over just inking. I don't really like what I did with the hair, I think it could have been a little blonder but overall I'll accept the outcome.

8/10

#77 Assembly, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016

Introduction

I have been really busy with getting ready for the journeyman league, so I am now finally getting back to the videos.

This video covers off my process of getting the models ready for painting. The steps were fairly normal but there were a few little gotchas in there.

Assembly Video

Assembly

The first step in any assembly is cleaning up the model in this case, I had to remove gate joins and there was a little bit of flash lines on the model. I used the clippers and hobby knife to  clean them down.

The gates were not particularly great, some were located on some high detail areas and need cleaning off. During the process I found it reasonably hard to get the model cleaned up to a resonable standard.

The restic itself was rather rough, I think it was related predominantly to whatever release agent they use for the model. So in my opinion they need to be given a wash, I also think if the bath is a little warm the restic seems to a little smoother too.

Over all I would recommend dry fitting everything with these models, sometimes an ill fitting join can be cleaned up by trimming down the join dimple or giving it a file.

Models:

Major Beth Maddox
The only really strange join on the model is head join it really didn't sit very nicely for me. I trimmed down the peg multiple times to try and get it cleanly in place.

Firefly/Lancer
The firefly and the lancer both share the same basic layout, for both models I would recommend dry fitting each part.

Most of the model was fairly easy to put together, a few of the parts are self explanatory, there are a few bits that are small and unusual but if you dry fit you should be fine.

Ironclad
This guy is fairly easy but to get a nice fit on the wrists I would recommend making sure of the angles once the arms are aligned on the torso.

Basing

I gave my cobblestone method another try.

I first put a reasonable thick layer of wall filler on to the base, this is then carved using a the flat plastic spatula provided with the filler.

Once dry I then sand with a heavy grit sand paper to create a rough rocky surface on the top of the filler. This combination is great for a quick simple base that can be quickly dry-brushed.

Conclusion

Overall, I dont like the restic, I really wish Privateer Press had gone with hard plastics. Once I stop whinging about that I dont mind the models. They look nice and I really cant wait to paint them up.

7/10

#76 Closure, Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus

Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus

Introduction

Well the journey is over, the dead of redchapel are painted, it took me a while longer than expected mainly due to real life jumping up and down.

The Models

• Seamus

• Copycat Killer

• Madam Sybelle

• 3x Rotten Belles

Conclusion

I think they really came together quite nicely. the colours are all distinct and the models seem to be a cohesive little bunch even with the disparate colours. I think I learnt a few tricks with the painting which I definitely will apply to further projects.

9/10

#75 Painted, Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus

Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus

 

Introduction

Well here we are the last model of the box, I really wanted something specific for this guy. I feel like I have better control over my airbrush so instead of brushing I would try and lay down some blocks with it and then try to create contrast with dry brushing and inking.

Painting

Step By Step

Model:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Coat: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
3. Pants: Grey (Minitaire, Base Grey)
4. Hat: Blue (Minitaire, Lagoon Blue)
5. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
6. Cravat and Hat Ribbon: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
7. Boots: Brown (Reaper, Golden Brown)
8. Hair: Orange (Citadel, Blazing Orange)
9. Buckles and Gun: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
10. Cloths Dry brush: White (P3, Menoth White Highlight)
11. Model Ink: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark tone)

Bases:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dirt: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
3. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 1: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)
4. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 2: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)

Basing

As part of basing this model I really wanted to have some tombstones, I honestly wanted to buy some, but my local store was out and I had a nice tube of plumbers putty. I ended up rolling out a flat sheet, and using pastry cutters to outline some flat tombstone shapes and when they dried I scratched them to give them a warn look, If I had longer before it set I would have carved more into the stones. I then used wall filler to create a dirt mound for placement.

Conclusion

I really enjoy this guy. He looks creepy with a distinct Irish caricature.

9/10

#74 Painted, Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Copycat Killer

Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Copycat Killer

Introduction

I didn't know how I wanted to paint this guy at the start there were too many hats his details were small and the bag looked odd.

As I do almost every I get stuck like that taking the painting step by step tends to be a successful strategy. I blocked in my colours and took it step by step.

Painting

Step By Step

Model:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Bag: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
3. Scissors, Saw, Gun and Buckles: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal)
4. Skin and Entrails: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
5. Entrails Highlight: Pink (Vallejo Game Color, Squid Pink)
6. Entrails Ink: Red (Army Painter Ink, Red)
7. Coat: Blue (Minitaire, Lagoon Blue)
8. Trousers: Brown (Reaper, Golden Brown)
9. Hat 1: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Sombre Grey)
10. Hat 1 Bow: Pink (Vallejo Game Color, Squid Pink)
11. Hat 1 Bow Ink: Purple (Army Painter Ink, Purple)
12. Hat 2: Brown (Reaper, Golden Brown)
13. Hat 3: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
14. Hat 4: Blue (Citadel, Sotek Green)
15. Hair: Green (Vallejo Game Color, Heavy Black Green)
16. Cloths Dry brush: White (P3, Menoth White Highlight)
17. Scissors, Saw, Gun, Buckles, Hats and Trousers: Black (Army Painter Ink, Dark Tone) 
18. Bag Ink: Brown (Army Painter Ink: Soft Tone)
19. Coat: Ink (Army Painter Ink, Blue)

Bases:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dirt: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
3. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 1: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)
4. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 2: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)

Basing

As part of basing these models I really wanted to have some tombstones, I honestly wanted to buy some, but my local store was out and I had a nice tube of plumbers putty. I ended up rolling out a flat sheet, and using pastry cutters to outline some flat tombstone shapes and when they dried I scratched them to give them a warn look, If I had longer before it set I would have carved more into the stones. I then used wall filler to create a dirt mound for placement.

Conclusion

I made something that I think quite nicely represents what is intended with the model hes a psycho leprechaun and that's what I made him, using some different colours from the normal somber look of Malifaux miniatures creates focal points in this case the purple bow.

8/10

#73 Unboxing, Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016

Warmachine, Cygnar Battlegroup 2016

Introduction

Finally, I got my hands on the long awaited MK3 Warmachine stuff. I drank the Koolaid completely, I'm buying stuff, I'm in a league and I'm going to be buying more, Shhhhhhh I said it.

Go silently into the good night dear wallet, another pile of stuff the paint, yes be happy. 

Whats in the Box?

• 5x Stat Cards + 1 x Wall Card 

• 4 Blue Miniatures
• Major Beth Maddox

• Lancer

• Firefly 

• Ironclad

• Training Manual

• Battle Mat (Banana for size)

• Introductory Guide

• Cutdown Rules

• Ruler

• 4 x 6 sided dice

• 10 Focus Tokens + 3 Spell Tokens

Whats good in the box?

The Miniatures are of an OK quality I am more use to the hard plastics from malifaux these are more in line with the restics from deadzone. While they all look fine they will need a fair amount of cleaning up and the fact they have been pre-clipped out a spur makes it hard to determine if you have all the bits.

Their associated cards are all well printed and easy to read, I had some trouble with the malifaux cards as they like a lot of visual decoration on them and that makes it sometimes hard to read from a distance.

The dice seem really nice Im used to using some of the older, geedubs dice which I hated, so 4 more nice ones is great.

The tokens being plastic make a welcome addition over the usual cardboard ones provided in other boxes or not provided at all.... Im looking at you malifaux.

Whats not so great?

The ruler is really cheap its going away very soon.

The mat while vibrant and colorful, is very very stiff and seems like its too small for a full sized game, it worked out at about 2 foot by 2 foot. I would have paid much more for a box if it included the rubber backed mat's I've had in other games or even a full sized mat in poster paper or cloth.

Conclusion

I'm really psyched to get these guys put together. I have to resist the urge to buy more at this stage, I do want to get another box to two so my kids can play too.

8/10

#72 Painted, Malifaux, Hide and Seek, The Dreamer, Daydreams

Malifaux, Hide and Seek, The Dreamer, Daydreams

Introduction

Like the Alps, I wanted bright colours, these are simple models so If I wanted to make them more interesting it would be from things I added to the models rather than me getting them from inking or dry brushing.

With that in mind I tried really hard to make these guys unique.

Painting

Step By Step

Grinning

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Green/Yellow (Vallejo Game Color, Livery Green)
3. Prime: White (Vallejo Primer White)
4. Skin: Blue (Citadel, Sotek Green)
5. Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
6. Eye, Orange (Citadel, Blazing Orange)
7. Highlight: Purple (Vallejo Game Color, Warlord Purple)

Imp

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Blue (Citadel, Sotek Green)
3. Prime: White (Vallejo Primer White)
4. Skin: Red (P3, Murderous Magenta)
5. Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
6. Tongue: Green/Yellow (Vallejo Game Color, Livery Green)
7. Ink: Red (Army Painter Ink, Red)
8. Highlight: Purple (Vallejo Game Color, Warlord Purple)
9. Eyes and Teeth: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Sombre Grey)

Squid

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Red (P3, Murderous Magenta)
3. Prime: White (Vallejo Primer White) 
4. Skin: Yellow/Green (Vallejo Game Color, Livery Green)
5. Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
6. Eye: Orange (Citadel, Blazing Orange)
7. Inked: Green (Amy Painter Ink, Green)
8. Highlight: Purple (Vallejo Game Color, Warlord Purple)

Conclusion

I am pretty happy with how these have turned out and I think they look pretty similar to what my original idea was. I think I also achieved something better than I thought i could with some of the highlighting I did which really brought them above where I thought I could get to.

8/10

#71 Painted, Malifaux, Hide and Seek, The Dreamer, Alps

Malifaux, Hide and Seek, The Dreamer, Alps

Introduction

Before starting this box I really wasn't interested in the Alps, I eventually decided that if I was going to paint them I really wanted them to be really bright and with that in mind I used a bunch of bright colours to try and accent them and create something I really was interested in.

Painting

Step By Step

Standing

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Pink (Vallejo Game Color Squid Pink)
3. Prime: White (Vallejo Primer White) 
4. Skin: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
5. Skin Ink: Blue (Army Painter Ink Blue)
6. Skin Highlights: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
7. Cloths:  Yellow (Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow)
8. Cloths Ink: Green (Citadel Glaze, Waywatcher Green)
9. Club and Cigar, Dagger Handle: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
10. Horn and Hair: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
11. Dagger Scabbard, Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Sombre Grey)

Running

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Orange (Reaper, Fireball Orange)
3. Skin: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
4. Skin Ink: Blue (Army Painter Ink Blue)
5. Skin Highlights: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
6. Cloths: Pink (Vallejo Game Color Squid Pink)
7. Cloths Ink: Purple (Army Painter Ink, Purple)
8. Cloths Highlight: Pink (Vallejo Game Color Squid Pink)
9. Horn and Hair: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
10. Teeth: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight)
11. Tongue: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)

Crouching

 

1. Base Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer Black)  
2. Base Shape: Yellow (Reaper Pale Saffron)
3. Base Shape Highlight: Yellow (Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow)
4. Skin: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
5. Skin Ink: Blue (Army Painter Ink Blue)
6. Skin Highlights: Blue (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
7. Cloths: Orange (Reaper, Fireball Orange)
8. Cloths Ink: Brown (Army Painter Ink, Soft Tone)
9. Cloths Highlight: Orange (Reaper, Fireball Orange)
10. Dagger Handle: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
11. Dagger Scabbard, Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Sombre Grey)

Bases

I created the bases by using some wall filler and the using some bakery shapes I had laying around into them to create solid outlines in them. The bases were left to dry and then were sanded flat.

Conclusion

I set out with the intention of creating some bright models, each was different in some way and I feel like I've learned a few things along the way. The crouching model's clothes ended up being not as bright as I had imagined in my head but I think it looks OK.

The standing model, was my first time painting with yellow as a main focal point and I now understand just how many coats it takes! My least favorite of the alps as the clothes don't look at all how I had wanted them to look.

The final guy the runner was my favorite of the Alps and he ended up looking bright and almost eccentric looking which was what I was hoping for.

Overall I had fun.

7/10

#70 Painted, Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Madam Sybelle

Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Madam Sybelle

 

Introduction

If you were looking for a dangerous looking lady in skin tight cloths with a giant whip and a possible case of the dead's you've come to the right place. I wanted to paint her in line with the belles, so this meant using some of the same colours and themes but I also wanted her to be dangerous on her own.

I also learned a little from the belles and my process changed a little.

Painting

Step By Step:

Model

1. Cloths: Red (Minitaire, Angelic Blood)
2. Cloths Ink and Mouth: Red (Army Painter Ink, Red)
3. Leggings: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
4. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
5. Hair: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight)
6. Leggings, Skin Ink and Hair: Brown (Army Painter Ink, Soft Tone)
7. Whip: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
8. Whip Dry brush: Silver (Army Painter, Gun Metal) 
9. Whip Dry brush: White (P3 Menoth White Highlight)
10. Whip Ink: Blue (Army Painter Ink, Blue)

Base

1. Dirt: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
2. Rocks: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)
3. Rocks Dry brush 2: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)

Basing

I was very worried about the whip and it interacting with anything I included on the base I really wanted to include a giant tombstone but sadly I opted out and went for something low with the rocks. I felt this gave me the best chance of not having a disaster at the end of painting.

Conclusion

I eneded up with having two major issues with this build.

1. Her arm created a large gap against the body and it annoyed the hell out of me. I ended up using blue tac to clean it up. While that not a suggested fix I have done it before and had ok outcomes.
2. When creating the bases I created pinning holes for the pins in her feet due to some major stupidiy on my part they were entirely in the wrong spot I had to redrill and fill the holes to make it work.

Other than that the model was a little dirty compared to what I was intending. I had to reink her skin on the shoulder and that made her a little darker than I wanted, overall as long as she fits the other models Im ok with her.

7/10

#69 Painted, Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Rotten Belles

Malifaux, Shadows of Redchapel, Seamus, Rotten Belles

Introduction

Ever since I bought this box I wanted to paint these girls. While I enjoy Seamus's back story I really think the belles define his character.

I set out with the goal of painting them bright, I wanted different colours and I wanted them to seem cohesive. I also wanted to try making some nice bases for them to have.

Painting

Step By Step:

Models:
I primed everything with Vallejo Primer Black, this was likely a bad choice and would have been better served going with grey or white for stronger colours.

Green:

1. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
2. Skin Ink: Brown (Army Painter Ink, Soft Tone)
3. Hair: Yellow (Reaper: Pale Saffron)
4. Hat Feather, Umbrella Tassels, Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
5. Cloths: Green (Minitaire, Fresh Grass)
6. Cloths dry brush: Yellow (Vallejo Game Color, Livery Green)
7. Cloths Ink: Green (Army Painter Ink Green)
8. Stockings: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
9. Eyes, Umbrella Rod: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)

Blue:

1. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
2. Skin Ink: Brown (Army Painter Ink, Soft Tone)
3. Hair, Umbrella Tassels, Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
4. Cloths: Green (Minitaire, Blue Lagoon)
5. Cloths dry brush: Yellow (Vallejo Game Color, Electric Blue)
6. Cloths Ink: Green (Army Painter Ink Blue)
7. Bow: Pink (Vallejo Game Color, Squid Pink)
8. Bow Ink: Purple (Army Painter Ink, Purple)
9. Stockings: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
10. Eyes, Umbrella Rod: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)

Purple:

1. Skin: Skin (Reaper, Caucasian Flesh)
2. Skin Ink: Brown (Army Painter Ink, Soft Tone)
3. Hair: Black (Army Painter, Matt Black)
4. Mouth: Red (Reaper, Brilliant Red)
5. Cloths: Purple (Minitaire, Eccymoose)
6. Cloths dry brush: Purple (Vallejo Game Color, Warlord Purple)
7. Cloths Ink: Purple (Army Painter Ink Purple)
8. Feather: Pink (Vallejo Game Color,Squid Pink)
9. Stockings: Blue (Reaper, Nightsky Blue)
10. Eyes, Umbrella Rod: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)

Bases:

1. Prime: Black (Vallejo Primer, Black)
2. Dirt: Brown (Minitaire, Bark)
3. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 1: Grey (Vallejo Game Color, Somber Grey)
4. Rocks, Tombstones Dry brush 2: Grey (Reaper, Concrete Grey)
5. Wood Dry brush 1: Brown (Reaper, Ashen Brown)
6. Wood Dry brush 2: Brown (Reaper, Golden Brown)

Basing

As part of basing these models I really wanted to have some tombstones, I honestly wanted to buy some, but my local store was out and I had a nice tube of plumbers putty. I ended up rolling out a flat sheet, and using pastry cutters to outline some flat tombstone shapes and when they dried I scratched them to give them a warn look, If I had longer before it set I would have carved more into the stones.

I then used wall filler to create a dirt mound for placement. There was also the "wood" base I used for one of the belles, I wanted it to look like a collapsed structure I don't think it worked out strictly. The wood was really porous to the superglue, I had to glue each piece down with a lot of glue to get them to stay.

Conclusion

At some point you hate what you are painting, I did for a lot of my time on these models. I didn't really feel that I had a good handle on the skin for the models I primed them the wrong colour and I felt the colours came out very dark. But I am not completely unhappy I really like how I managed to pick out the gaps in the stockings. I like the base, highlight ink pattern I used on my clothing.

In the end I'm good with these models.

7/10